So this one time, I went to Argentina, quit class, and decided to hike a mountain

In case I have not already told you, here's a little life update...

I have been taking Spanish class at the University of Buenos Aires language school, and signed up for two months. I started out in Advanced, where we tackled complicated grammatical structures and the SIX forms of the subjunctive (first thing I learned: there are six subjunctive tenses). Obviously, I've already graduated, so this whole experience is more for life enrichment than getting credits. In the classroom, I certainly learned much about Spanish formally, but where I have really been gaining my skill and confidence is outside the classroom - with Mecky, the cab drivers, waiters, vendors, and friends you make each night. With all this learning, I decided to opt out of classes for July and instead use the money for classes to go here:

MACHU PICCHU!

On Monday, I am leaving for a week-long adventure to Peru. We start in Cusco, do a train tour through the Sacred Valley, and then hike and camp for four days up Machu Picchu on the Lares Trek. I'm going with the travel company Intrepid (same Erin used to go to India), and will be in a group of about 15 other travelers. Can't believe I'm on the brink of accomplishing one of my big life ambitions: Machu Picchu!

Not having classes this month has also been great since Erin has been here, and has given me more time to really get to know the city. After Peru, I will be in BsAs for a few more days, and then homeward bound on July 21, a bit earlier than I originally anticipated. Looking forward to some Wichita summer, but questioning how it's going to be to return to reality, find a job and a place to life, and not be back to TU in the fall. The biggest thing this trip has taught me though: take each day as it comes, worry less, and have faith  more! 

Life is an adventure...Bring it on.

Erin is Here!!

Sorry it's been so long since my last post! So much has happened (as always) so I don't know where to begin.

Your requests for my updates have made my day. When rambling on about my ridiculous life, I wonder "Is anybody even reading this?" So THANK YOU for reading and THANK YOU for being awesome. Missing all of my wonderful friends!

Erin got here a week ago, and we have been having a ball. Been enjoying taking her around to my favorite spots, as well as discovering new places. Some of our favorite things we have been doing around the city include:
--Window shopping
and regular shopping...we both bought a pair of awesome boots
--Sipping espresso
we order the doble when we are super tired, otherwise it's cafe con leche
--Tango music
I took her to Casa de Roberto, my favorite tango music bar. Also saw some impromptu tango dancing on the street
--Wandering and Pondering
Walking miles a day, dodging cars and dog doo, observing Argentine fashions, contemplating and learning about Argentine culture, touring through the different barrios. Erin is already acting like a local, and she is trying to learn some Spanish phrases which is absolutely hilarious.
--Eating. A LOT. A LOT.
Erin wanted some good Argentine steak, and boy did she get it. Never in my life have I eaten such delicious food. We have a policy where you say the key word (STEAK) to the other at any point during the day, and it will automatically make the other person happy, thinking back on all the great food we have had.
--Markets
Went to the artisan market by my house in Recoleta on Saturday, and on Sunday went to the San Telmo market, which are street vendors that stretch down the street for miles, selling all sorts of handcrafts).
--Futbol
Saw the Argentina/Germany game. I don't want to talk about it... As you know, I'm totally not a sports fanatic at all, but I have been so into the World Cup! After the U.S. was out, Argentina was my country (and let's be real, we knew the US wouldn't make it far.) I had been talking up the Argentina team to Erin and trying to explain the craze and energy of seeing a game here and the party at the Obelisk when they win. Boy was last week a downer for everyone. We watch the game with thousands of other people in a park, and I feared for my life what would happen - No matter the game's turnout, the town would probably be lit on fire. After Germany scored the third goal, people started leaving the park and couldn't bear to see the end of it. All over the city, no smiles were to be found, feet dragged, and heads were down. It was like everyone's dog died on the same day. I'm happy Germany lost, and will be cheering for Spain in the finals.
--Pretty Parks
My favorite spot is 3 de Febrero, the HUGE city park that is several times the size of Central Park. Today we rented petal boats and went around the lake, and walked through the Rose Gardens. We make quite the cute couple.
--Museums
--Churches
--Walking tours
--Fancy bars

We are having so much fun! It's so special to be able to show her my life here. And what the life I have!

Here are a few pictures of us in BA

In the 3 de Febrero Park, where we kicked up our feet by the lake and watched the sun set

 Getting ready to go out on the down, post- huge steak dinner

By a silly tango statue at Plaza Durrango, where the gigantic flea market is

As if BA isn't enough, we went on two side trips. We went to Iguazu Waterfalls (one of the wonders of the world!) and Colonia, Uruguay (a super cute old town, which we got to via ferry). Separate update to come on that one, but here's a teaser...

Un Cumple Feliz

Many have asked how my birthday was (thanks for asking!), so I thought I would share my day with you.

It was wonderful! Argentina style. It was my first birthday away from family, first birthday in school, and first birthday in a different country. And no, 22 doesn't really feel too different.

The day started out with a bang with my Spanish final. No worries, I rocked it. As a birthday gift, my teacher glanced over my exam before I turned it in and hinted at my mistakes. I was going for just passing, as I was taking Spanish for fun rather than credit, but I got an A! I'll be sure to stick my diploma on the fridge when I get home.

After the exam, Rebecca, Olivia, and I went to Cafe Tortoni, a historic cafe I have been wanting to go to for some time now. In ecstasy, we sipped on submarinos, my new favorite drink. A steaming cup of milk is served with a big chocolate bar, which you sink to make hot chocolate.

 

The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering around the city, walking on sunshine. 

 

Then, we had a big Argentine, three-hour dinner, complete with...

LOTS AND LOTS OF MEAT...

(our waiter was in shock how much 5 small girls could eat)

DESSERT AND BIRTHDAY WISHES...

(dulce de leche crepes are amazing!)

AND GREAT PEOPLE!

(I'm going to miss these girls!)

 

My List

And the journey in the city continues...

So much to update since my last post! I have not traveled since Mendoza, but there is so much to do here. Every moment seems occupied by something eye-popping, jaw-dropping, or mouth-watering. At the end of each day, I make a little bullet-point list of what I did that day, as it is hard to keep track. Looking back on the list, all I can say is WOW I LOVE THIS CITY!

Here is my list from the past week:

Sunday (6/20): Ballet Bust and Bandera
Got all dressed up to go to the ballet at the famous Teatro Colon. Got to the theater to learn that the show had been suspended due to technical issues. Que pena! Instead, Andrew and I went out for a steak dinner at Puerto Madero.
Afterward, we were surprised by a firework show and celebration in Plaza de Mayo for Dia de La Bandera (Flag Day).

Monday (6/21): Palermo Pondering
Day off from class for Dia de La Bandera, so I spent it wandering around Palermo, a hip neighborhood with lots of parks, shic botiques, and great cafes.

Tuesday (6/22): City Tour, World Cup, Dancin'
Went on a free city tour around downtown, and learned a lot about my beloved ciudad.
Watched Argentina beat Greece. Watched the first half on a bigscreen in a park with more people crammed in on the lawn than a U2 concert. Spent the second half in a cafe for a change of scenery - Lots of shouting, jumping, and blue and white.
After an Argentina win, the entire city flocks to the Obelisk for a street dance party and other crazy shenanigans. 

Danced the night away to celebrate at a club downtown that is in an old bank.

Wednesday (6/23): Milonga Musica
Went to a Milonga, which is a traditional Tango dance hall where the locals go dance (opposed to the big professional shows for tourists). The night started with a tango dancing lesson, but I had to sit it out and leave it to the pros after bumping into everyone and scuffing my two left feet the first half of the lesson. Lesson was followed by live music (who knew you could rock out on an accordion and violin?) and dancers sultrily circling the floor.

Thursday (6/24): Mate Magic, Divine Dinner, Chick Flick
Strolled through the park and botanical gardens in the morning, with mate and thermos in hand.
Cooked a wonderful pasta dinner with the girls after class, followed by a much-needed movie to relax after all the week's activities.

Friday (6/25): La Bella y La Bestia
WOWOWOW! One of my favorite things yet. Saw the Broadway version of Beauty and the Beast, but in SPANISH. The songs, sets, special effects, dancing, everything was fantastic. I had a smile on my face the entire show. "Be Our Guest" was probably my favorite number.

Saturday (6/26):Chop Chop, Casa Rosada, America Land
Cut my hair
Toured Casa Rosada, where the president works. They open it on the weekends for tours.

Watched America get eliminated out of the World Cup. It was not the best day to be an American abroad. Watched the game at the Alamo, and American bar. It was so strange stepping off the Spanish streets, and beyond a wooden door was America land - Where everyone speaks English, chicken wings and nachos are served, and the TVs show American sports. Diving into our nachos, we said "God Bless America!"

Separate post to come for 6/28: (birthday!!)

Liz Goes to the Hair Salon

I wouldn't say I have a Buenos Aires alter ego, but I certainly have been living an unbelievable life here in the city. I go by Liz, as Elizabeth is too hard to say in Spanish. Liz speaks Spanish (or at least tries), stays out until 5am, quits class to travel to Peru, seizes every moment, watches tango, rides the Subte, goes to concerts and the theater, drinks mate, embraces the no-plan plan, loves life.

And this Saturday Liz woke up and decided to go get her hair cut.

Without much thought or haircut vocabulary in her brain, Liz marched to the salon. Soon after sitting down in the chair, she realized perhaps this was a horrible idea. The client right before me received a crazy mullet, resembling such:

I flashed back to when I went and got my haircut in Barcelona. That turned out successfully though.

With broken Spanish and fingers nervously gripped to the barber chair, I made it though, and it turned out great and mullet-free!

Stay tuned for more of Liz's adventures. Big blog update to come once I can get my photos uploaded!

Week 2 in Buenos Aires

Have I really only been here two weeks?

I feel like I have already changed from "Where am I, and what the heck is going on here??!!" to a resident in my city.

Riding the subway last week, I was crammed by the door, with less personal space than a sardine in a can. I put on my iPod, counted the stops, and squeezed out through the crowd, up the escalator, and into the zooming city the awaited in the sunshine. Coming up through the subway, I had a huge smile on my face...

I caught it. The energy, the crazy, the rush.
This city is contagious.

Every day has been jam-packed with sites, food, Spanish, drinks, unique music, new people, dancing, laughing, getting lost.

Here are the highlights of my second week in the city:
AMAZING MUSIC - There is an unbelievable music scene of all different kinds in BsAs.

Friday night I went to a percussion show, La Bomba de Tiempo, at the Konex, which is a happening location for Argentine youth. You know it's good when it's all locals. The Konex was like a warehouse meets the KC Power & Light District. There were thousands of people packed in, jamming with the beats. Beer was served not by the bottle, but the liter, and fresh air was nowhere to be found. INSANELY AWESOME is the only way I could describe it. WOW.

Last night was another night of a local, insanely awesome music scene, totally different than the Konex. Tucked away in Almagro (the more working-class neighborhood), is a secret bar La Casa de Roberto. Cobweb-laced wine bottles lined the tiny bar's walls, and we were shoulder-to-shoulder with all Argentines. In the corner, a small stage gave way to tango music. The most authentic you could ever find. A woman sang songs of lost love, bad men, and love to be found, while a guitarist strummed and the crowded filled in any missing words and swayed along. So magical. So real. So Argentina.

Here is a video for some audio.

Dancing: After our magical experience with tango music at Casa de Roberto, we certainly weren't ready to turn in for the night. It was 3am and the night was young, right? While attempting to find a dance club, we instead came upon a Milanga, which is a parlor for traditional dance. Open-mouthed, we watched the couples stop, turn, wave handkerchiefs, and weave in and out on the floor. They danced some sort of rendition of the Somba. I certainly could not figure out the method to the madness, so I sat back and took it all in.

Palace in Provencia - Saturday afternoon, my school took us on a cultural field trip to Provincia, the suburbs north of the city, outside of Capital Federal. We toured the estate of Victoria Ocampo, a feminist leader, founder of Sur Magazine, and huge figure for Latin America. It was so gorgeous, and not something I would have otherwise had the chance to see.

Awesome Artisan Markets - vendors wind around parks and plazas on weekends, each selling unique hand-crafted trinkets

Caminito - When you think Buenos Aires, the first thing you probably imagine is its colorful street. Although it is pretty touristy now, it is the birthplace of Tango and the immigrant community.

The Theater - Bought tickets to see Bella y La Bestia (Beauty and the Beast) at the theater this week! Today I am seeing a ballet at Teatro Colon, BsAs's most famous theater that just opened after years of rennovation

The Park - My favorite spot! It goes on for miles, and is the perfect place to see some green and soak up the sun when the concrete and traffic get to be too much. Lakes with petal boats, trees, dogs, picnicers, mate-drinkers, runners, couples, benches, rose gardens, magic.

El Micro - The downtown hub. Casa Rosada (Pink House, compared to our White House) is where the President conducts her affairs. Cathedral Metropolin, where Argentine's hero San Martin is buried. Plaza de Mayo, where someone is always protesting about something. Calle Florida, where shopping is hot. Men in suits. People with places to be.

Puerto Madero - Newly renovated waterfront. Here is Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Woman), which is supposed to symbolize a tango dance

World Cup Madness - See previous post

China Town - The main motivation to go there...PEANUT BUTTER. The only place in the city you can buy it.

So much more to come!

Dame Cambio

The peso is quite the predicament.

ATMs give you large bills.
No one gives you change.
So you need exact bills.
Coins are nearly impossible to come by.
Yet you must pay with exact coins to ride the bus.

This guy sure gives me a lot of trouble:

Trying to break 100 at a vendor is a game. Nonchalantly, you hand it over. As if it were poisonous, they hand it back in disgust, saying "I don't have change." How could a supermarket cash register spilling over will bills not have change? (Note: The value of a 100 peso bill is only $25USD).

Then it begins: The Staredown. I reply "Well, that's all the have." They reply, "Well, I don't have change." Both stare, secretly wondering "Shoot! What if they really don't have change?"

Last night I had quite the little pickle due to my 100 peso friend. My cab ride home, I honestly did not have smaller bills. And after a five-minute Staredown, I think the cab driver really didn't have change. I ran into a neighboring bar, scooted in without paying a cover, and bee-lined to the bar to get change. (Yeah right, like someone would actually break a 100?)

But the stars aligned and luck was on my side...
THEY HAD CHANGE!

I skipped back to my taxista, forked over the cash, and he grumpily drove away.