My List

And the journey in the city continues...

So much to update since my last post! I have not traveled since Mendoza, but there is so much to do here. Every moment seems occupied by something eye-popping, jaw-dropping, or mouth-watering. At the end of each day, I make a little bullet-point list of what I did that day, as it is hard to keep track. Looking back on the list, all I can say is WOW I LOVE THIS CITY!

Here is my list from the past week:

Sunday (6/20): Ballet Bust and Bandera
Got all dressed up to go to the ballet at the famous Teatro Colon. Got to the theater to learn that the show had been suspended due to technical issues. Que pena! Instead, Andrew and I went out for a steak dinner at Puerto Madero.
Afterward, we were surprised by a firework show and celebration in Plaza de Mayo for Dia de La Bandera (Flag Day).

Monday (6/21): Palermo Pondering
Day off from class for Dia de La Bandera, so I spent it wandering around Palermo, a hip neighborhood with lots of parks, shic botiques, and great cafes.

Tuesday (6/22): City Tour, World Cup, Dancin'
Went on a free city tour around downtown, and learned a lot about my beloved ciudad.
Watched Argentina beat Greece. Watched the first half on a bigscreen in a park with more people crammed in on the lawn than a U2 concert. Spent the second half in a cafe for a change of scenery - Lots of shouting, jumping, and blue and white.
After an Argentina win, the entire city flocks to the Obelisk for a street dance party and other crazy shenanigans. 

Danced the night away to celebrate at a club downtown that is in an old bank.

Wednesday (6/23): Milonga Musica
Went to a Milonga, which is a traditional Tango dance hall where the locals go dance (opposed to the big professional shows for tourists). The night started with a tango dancing lesson, but I had to sit it out and leave it to the pros after bumping into everyone and scuffing my two left feet the first half of the lesson. Lesson was followed by live music (who knew you could rock out on an accordion and violin?) and dancers sultrily circling the floor.

Thursday (6/24): Mate Magic, Divine Dinner, Chick Flick
Strolled through the park and botanical gardens in the morning, with mate and thermos in hand.
Cooked a wonderful pasta dinner with the girls after class, followed by a much-needed movie to relax after all the week's activities.

Friday (6/25): La Bella y La Bestia
WOWOWOW! One of my favorite things yet. Saw the Broadway version of Beauty and the Beast, but in SPANISH. The songs, sets, special effects, dancing, everything was fantastic. I had a smile on my face the entire show. "Be Our Guest" was probably my favorite number.

Saturday (6/26):Chop Chop, Casa Rosada, America Land
Cut my hair
Toured Casa Rosada, where the president works. They open it on the weekends for tours.

Watched America get eliminated out of the World Cup. It was not the best day to be an American abroad. Watched the game at the Alamo, and American bar. It was so strange stepping off the Spanish streets, and beyond a wooden door was America land - Where everyone speaks English, chicken wings and nachos are served, and the TVs show American sports. Diving into our nachos, we said "God Bless America!"

Separate post to come for 6/28: (birthday!!)

Liz Goes to the Hair Salon

I wouldn't say I have a Buenos Aires alter ego, but I certainly have been living an unbelievable life here in the city. I go by Liz, as Elizabeth is too hard to say in Spanish. Liz speaks Spanish (or at least tries), stays out until 5am, quits class to travel to Peru, seizes every moment, watches tango, rides the Subte, goes to concerts and the theater, drinks mate, embraces the no-plan plan, loves life.

And this Saturday Liz woke up and decided to go get her hair cut.

Without much thought or haircut vocabulary in her brain, Liz marched to the salon. Soon after sitting down in the chair, she realized perhaps this was a horrible idea. The client right before me received a crazy mullet, resembling such:

I flashed back to when I went and got my haircut in Barcelona. That turned out successfully though.

With broken Spanish and fingers nervously gripped to the barber chair, I made it though, and it turned out great and mullet-free!

Stay tuned for more of Liz's adventures. Big blog update to come once I can get my photos uploaded!

Week 2 in Buenos Aires

Have I really only been here two weeks?

I feel like I have already changed from "Where am I, and what the heck is going on here??!!" to a resident in my city.

Riding the subway last week, I was crammed by the door, with less personal space than a sardine in a can. I put on my iPod, counted the stops, and squeezed out through the crowd, up the escalator, and into the zooming city the awaited in the sunshine. Coming up through the subway, I had a huge smile on my face...

I caught it. The energy, the crazy, the rush.
This city is contagious.

Every day has been jam-packed with sites, food, Spanish, drinks, unique music, new people, dancing, laughing, getting lost.

Here are the highlights of my second week in the city:
AMAZING MUSIC - There is an unbelievable music scene of all different kinds in BsAs.

Friday night I went to a percussion show, La Bomba de Tiempo, at the Konex, which is a happening location for Argentine youth. You know it's good when it's all locals. The Konex was like a warehouse meets the KC Power & Light District. There were thousands of people packed in, jamming with the beats. Beer was served not by the bottle, but the liter, and fresh air was nowhere to be found. INSANELY AWESOME is the only way I could describe it. WOW.

Last night was another night of a local, insanely awesome music scene, totally different than the Konex. Tucked away in Almagro (the more working-class neighborhood), is a secret bar La Casa de Roberto. Cobweb-laced wine bottles lined the tiny bar's walls, and we were shoulder-to-shoulder with all Argentines. In the corner, a small stage gave way to tango music. The most authentic you could ever find. A woman sang songs of lost love, bad men, and love to be found, while a guitarist strummed and the crowded filled in any missing words and swayed along. So magical. So real. So Argentina.

Here is a video for some audio.

Dancing: After our magical experience with tango music at Casa de Roberto, we certainly weren't ready to turn in for the night. It was 3am and the night was young, right? While attempting to find a dance club, we instead came upon a Milanga, which is a parlor for traditional dance. Open-mouthed, we watched the couples stop, turn, wave handkerchiefs, and weave in and out on the floor. They danced some sort of rendition of the Somba. I certainly could not figure out the method to the madness, so I sat back and took it all in.

Palace in Provencia - Saturday afternoon, my school took us on a cultural field trip to Provincia, the suburbs north of the city, outside of Capital Federal. We toured the estate of Victoria Ocampo, a feminist leader, founder of Sur Magazine, and huge figure for Latin America. It was so gorgeous, and not something I would have otherwise had the chance to see.

Awesome Artisan Markets - vendors wind around parks and plazas on weekends, each selling unique hand-crafted trinkets

Caminito - When you think Buenos Aires, the first thing you probably imagine is its colorful street. Although it is pretty touristy now, it is the birthplace of Tango and the immigrant community.

The Theater - Bought tickets to see Bella y La Bestia (Beauty and the Beast) at the theater this week! Today I am seeing a ballet at Teatro Colon, BsAs's most famous theater that just opened after years of rennovation

The Park - My favorite spot! It goes on for miles, and is the perfect place to see some green and soak up the sun when the concrete and traffic get to be too much. Lakes with petal boats, trees, dogs, picnicers, mate-drinkers, runners, couples, benches, rose gardens, magic.

El Micro - The downtown hub. Casa Rosada (Pink House, compared to our White House) is where the President conducts her affairs. Cathedral Metropolin, where Argentine's hero San Martin is buried. Plaza de Mayo, where someone is always protesting about something. Calle Florida, where shopping is hot. Men in suits. People with places to be.

Puerto Madero - Newly renovated waterfront. Here is Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Woman), which is supposed to symbolize a tango dance

World Cup Madness - See previous post

China Town - The main motivation to go there...PEANUT BUTTER. The only place in the city you can buy it.

So much more to come!

Dame Cambio

The peso is quite the predicament.

ATMs give you large bills.
No one gives you change.
So you need exact bills.
Coins are nearly impossible to come by.
Yet you must pay with exact coins to ride the bus.

This guy sure gives me a lot of trouble:

Trying to break 100 at a vendor is a game. Nonchalantly, you hand it over. As if it were poisonous, they hand it back in disgust, saying "I don't have change." How could a supermarket cash register spilling over will bills not have change? (Note: The value of a 100 peso bill is only $25USD).

Then it begins: The Staredown. I reply "Well, that's all the have." They reply, "Well, I don't have change." Both stare, secretly wondering "Shoot! What if they really don't have change?"

Last night I had quite the little pickle due to my 100 peso friend. My cab ride home, I honestly did not have smaller bills. And after a five-minute Staredown, I think the cab driver really didn't have change. I ran into a neighboring bar, scooted in without paying a cover, and bee-lined to the bar to get change. (Yeah right, like someone would actually break a 100?)

But the stars aligned and luck was on my side...
THEY HAD CHANGE!

I skipped back to my taxista, forked over the cash, and he grumpily drove away.

Copa del Mundo!

Vamos, vamos Argentina,
vamos, vamos a ganar,
que esta barra quilombera,
no te deja, no te deja de alentar

The World Cup has begun!

This morning, there was no chance of sleeping in. The TV in the next room blared sports commentary, while my host brother yelled right along. Shouts and cheers from the street streamed through my window. The ceiling vibrated from fans stomping around upstairs. Argentina had its second game in the World Cup this morning, with a 4-1 victory against Nigeria. Indeed, it was a good day to be an Argentinian.

Enthusiasm and national pride are at all all time high. It's totally insane. Messi jerseys are the outfit of choice. Blue and white stripes could be seen poking out of girls' uniform blouses. Some men even had Argentina jerseys on with their business suit, and dogs sported them as well. Scarves, hats, flags, created a sea of sky blue and white throughout the city. There are even flags in the churches, (although futbol might be considered more of a religion). Every television has the games on - people crowd around electronic stores, and go to bars regardless of wherever else they should be.

Although I am no sports aficionado, being here to experience the World Cup is so cool! At heart, I also want to root for the US and Spain, but if I waved any other bandera, I think it might be used to strangle me.

Argentines took this morning's victory to the streets in celebration. Downtown, fans were gathered to hoot and holler, and a blow up head of one of the players, Maradona, was in the city center.


Vamos Vamos Argentina! Next game: Tuesday!
Tomorrow the US plays!

How to Reach Me

With my (hem) upcoming (hem) day of birth, I have had several ask me about my mailing address. As thoughtful as it is, sending me a package is not the best idea. The post-office where the package would most likely go is in a bad part of town, where I would have to wait in line for hours (literally) to retrieve it. It can wait for me upon my return. Thanks for the thought!

As far as letters, that would work! You can mail it to my program office at the following address:
(Elizabeth O'Neill) C/O Road2Argentina
Anchorena 1676
C1425ELL Capital Federal
Argentina

If you would like to get a hold of me in more modern forms...
Dial 011-54-9-11-3816-1793 to reach my cell.

Skype me!

Email me!

Facebook me!


MISS YOU!

Many more updates to come. This week back in the city has been awesome. Been making the most of every day and really seeing the city. I feel like I'm starting to know my way around, and getting a feel for the culture. Its energy is contagious!

Adventure Week in Mendoza

I really recommend vacationing on vacation.

Just four days into class at Centro Universitario de Idiomas, I had the opportunity to go on a week-long study/adventure trip to Mendoza through the university. Although I was hesitant to leave the city I just arrived in, I couldn’t pass up these bold letters on the trip flyer: RAPPELLING, HORSEBACK RIDING, BIKERIDES, WINE TOURS, COUNTRYSIDE, SPANISH. Sign me up!

Our chariot to wine country paradise awaited: the ANDESMAR overnight bus. The quirky bus attendant led us in a game of Bingo, followed by Spanish music videos, dinner, and movie time before we reclined our seats to awake in Mendoza.

And we awoke to paradise indeed. Quiet streets, fall leaves, the best food, jaw-dropping views of The Andes, our host mothers welcoming us with big hugs.

The first three days, we had intensive Spanish class, emphasis on intense. Just three other girls went on the trip, and fortunately we were all at the same Spanish level. We cuatro chicas americanas entertained our professor Sergio, who taught us some important Spanish phrases. Between class, restaurants, vendors, taxi cab drivers, and dinner with Rosa (our host mother), the Spanish wheels turned all day. I miss Rosa already. Dinners were often lost in translation, or not understood at all (“No entiendo tu voz,” she said to me at one point), but we managed to talk about the meaning of life, the usefulness and harm of technology, family, religion, and customs. No topic is taboo in this country.

One of the nights, Rosa had her whole family over for dinner. The situation would be chaos for me in my native tongue, let alone Spanish. Argentines shouting over each other, pouring wine, feasting on carne asada, recounting stories. A timid person by nature, and the awkward foreigner interjected into a family dinner, I sat back and listened while sawing through endless portions of meat that were continuously put on my plate (I’m pretty my pores are still seeping ham). One of the uncles turned toward Rebecca (my roommate on the trip) and asked “Does your friend not understand Spanish?” I replied for her and said “Entiendo, solo soy timida.” I don’t know which party was more embarrassed.

To celebrate the end of class, we jumped off a mountain the following day. Then rode horses through the mountains. Then road bikes to wine vineyards.

And I didn’t have to pinch myself to believe it. My sore muscles and full camera memory card told me this is indeed real life. WOW.


Adventure 1: Rappelling

While standing on top of a mountain, helmet buckled and rappelling stirrups strapped, I looked down and thought “Whatever happened to get me to this point is totally crazy and totally amazing.”

We got to the rappel launch point after a three-hour off roading adventure. Certainly an experience you can’t tell your mom about until after the fact. In a 4X4 that would make the best Ford ad, we ascended the mountains through the clouds and along the cliff’s edge. We went above the clouds and emerged to an indescribable view of the Andes.

Rappelling was the scariest, but coolest thing I have ever done. The rush upon landing was surely a greater high than any substance could produce. We hiked up the mountain, were instructed in Spanish, and handed two ropes before we launched into the descent. Lean back, feet apart, steadily place one foot behind the other. SUCCESS. We were smiling for hours.

Adventure 2: Horseback Riding

A Kansas girl, I was teased by the group who said I had returned to my natural state. Indeed, I felt one with nature. Never have I experienced such expansive beauty, let along from the viewpoint of a horse. Mountains topped with snow to my right, wild horses and cottages to my left, expansive pampas ahead.

My horse Carrdo was chipper and loved to trot ahead of the group. He and I traversed creek, went through tall brush, ascended a mountain, and made friends with the other horses and dog following us. He did not join me, however, for my steak lunch, cooked over open fire. Now I understand why Argentina is famous for its steaks.

Adventure 3: Bikeriding Through Bodegas

Mounting a bike after a day of mounting a horse was a little rough. But the wine took off the edge. We rode through scenic country roads, and not so scenic roads (as we felt the whoosh of cars zooming by – another thing you don’t write home about until after the fact) to two bodegas. We met the wine maker, who gave us a tour and sampling of his best wines. In addition to its steaks, I also now understand why Argentina is famous for Malbec. We learned about the delicate and long process of wine making. The tour was in Spanish, and we had an ah-ha moment when we realized we were totally comprehending what was said to us. To reenergize, we feasted on more ham, cheese, chicken, and bread. Mendoza is paradise indeed.


With un besito, we bid our host mothers goodbye and boarded the ANDESMAR overnight bus back home. I’m back in Buenos Aires now, getting resettled and thrown back into the crazy. More updates about what I’ve been up to in BA to come!

A City to Experience

I’m in South America.
A sentence I must at times say out loud to myself so to believe it.

With day four under my belt, it’s the week of firsts in Buenos Aires. First impression, first to meet my host family, first sip of coffee at the corner café, first friends, first day of class. First time perhaps doing and experiencing anything this crazy in my life (my family may disagree).

Eyes glazed over and sensory on overload, I am taking it all in. My friend Andrew who has been studying in the city since February described it as “It’s not a city you see; it’s a city you experience.” Rather than tourist shops on every corner, and big sights for camera snapping, it is a city to know through living. And boy do the porteños live.


Me standing on the block outside school:



Here are some of my firsts and impressions of Buenos Aires thus far:
--CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS. I know NYC has already been christened this phrase, but BsAs would out beat it for the title. Lunch at 2pm, dinner at 10pm (mate and coffee must help suppress the appetite between meals), bar at 2am, club until 7am. Really, when do people sleep? In Wichita, we wonder how late something will be open. Here, that is not an issue.

--CRAZY TOWN. In addition to the crazy schedule, I would describe pretty much everything else as CRAZY. The streets are constantly packed with cars and people, and I don’t think a porteño would know silence if he heard it. BsAs has the highest number of auto fatalities, and a pedestrian has to stay on his toes, as cars zip by at sound-barrier-breaking speeds. Also on the crazy list:
-Politics: There are an infinite number of political parties, and politicians are
synonymous with corruption. And if there is something you don’t agree with, don’t write your congressman, take it to the street! Strikes and protests, with accompanying fireworks, drums, and banners, are a daily site around Congress
-Public transportation: There are even more bus lines than there are political parties. There are over 150 independent bus companies and a labyrinth of route possibilities. When advising us on how to get around, our program coordinators said “the bus is not for beginners.” The metro, called El Subte, is easy to navigate, (as long as you can squeeze through to fit into a car and aren’t closterphobic). Even using a map is crazy, as the city is not oriented North and South and the street grid is constantly shifting different directions. Walking around is certainly an adventure!

--MATE MATE. Mate is the national drink of Argentina. It is a communal drink that is accompanied with intricate etiquette rules, and tastes like a very earthy tea. It is not drank at cafes, but rather in the home or at parks. It is wonderful.


--HEY GOOD LOOKIN.’ Argentineans are constantly voted the “best looking” nation, and I think they know it. Women love fashion and going to the salon, and men love noticing them.

--WOOF. Argentineans love dogs. Golden Retriever seems to be the favorite. With their busy “work” and party schedule, they must not have much time to walk their beloved pooch, though. Dog walkers are everywhere! I think dogwalking should really be an Olympic sport. One dog walker controls at least 10 at once. When they need to drop off a dog to its owner or stop in a café for a bite, they simply tie up all 9 other leashes on a lamppost.


--LIBROS, ZAPATOS, Y CAFÉ. It would be easy to lose track of where one is in BsAs because every block has a book store, shoe store, and café. Perhaps this is a statement to what’s important in life? Books, shoes, and coffee. I knew I’d like it here :)


My host family is phenomenal. My mother is Mecky, and she is awesome! We eat dinner together with her son Mariano, and we have so much fun talking, and laughing about the things I say incorrectly in Spanish. Tonight, for example, I said “I would like to ride a horse.” The word for horse is caballo, similar to caballero, which means man. Yup, I said I wanted to ride a caballero.

Our apartment is in Recoleta, which is a great place to be. I can walk to school and many other places, and it is super safe. For all those worried about my safety, it is really not as all the horror stories make it seem and is a great city. I feel totally comfortable walking around, and it’s all about having street smarts, being alert, and staying in the right places. Don’t worry!!

School and my program, Road2Argentina are great. The people who run my program are so cool and helpful. Each week, we have different social or cultural activities with our program. Tomorrow, we are drinking mate and going to a tango show, and next week we are going to dinner. The other students in my program are from all around the US, and my orientation group and I have been sticking together. Everyone is down to earth and fun to be with. My classes are at the Institute for Language Studies (something like that), and the teachers are phenomenal. I was placed in Advanced I, (although talking to my family I sure don’t feel advanced!) I can tell I’m already turning on the Spanish brain and getting much better conversationally.

The other students and I have started planning our excursions. There is SO MUCH to see in this country! Glaciers, waterfalls, cowboys, mountains, cities, whales, it is unbelievable. I will be gone this Saturday and all next week to Mendoza for a school trip. Mendoza is close to Chile, in wine country. We study Spanish while we are there, and have tons of extreme outdoor activities, including: horseback riding, rock repelling, river rafting, zip line, hiking, wine tasting, bicycle tour, museums, and more! You guessed it, I’m going to do it all.

I have a long ways to go to really know this city, and I can’t wait to experience more!